A crew of Portuguese women will convey Marques’ Almeida’s spring 2021 assortment to the world from Porto, on the historic banks of the river Duoro immediately, opening a window on the designers’ outlook on doing trend higher. “We’re doing it in downtown Porto, overlooking the riverside, the place the port wine cellars are. It’s an out of doors area that’s simply been opened up, the place there’s going to be a trend museum,” says Marta Marques. “We’ve obtained an enormous open-air backstage, so all of the fashions and crew can be protected—and we’re solely doing eye make-up, so the women can put on masks whereas everybody’s prepping.”
Marques was speaking by way of their plans forward of time from the studio exterior town the place she and her companion Paolo Almeida have been with their Portuguese workers since lockdown, with their new child Alice making smiley contributions within the background. “Cool, fascinating, accessible, and sustainable” is how they describe their model’s holistic reset since they cut up their operations between London and their homebase earlier within the pandemic. “We couldn’t simply proceed as we used to, doing big collections,” Marques defined. “That’s stopping. The waste generated was getting a bit loopy. For a small model, it appears formidable to attempt to develop into sustainable. However for us, it’s higher to begin someplace, even when it’s not excellent. And now we’re holding ourselves
accountable for it.”
Effectively, visibly, that is the Marques’ Almeida answer for doing higher with much less—that mantra we’ve been listening to echoing by way of many a Zoom name for the reason that pandemic hit. The gathering strolling immediately is an upbeat manifestation of all Marques’ Almeida points of interest: boyfriend denims, attire and tops that sprout flounces, oversize tops, attractive knitted slip attire. An instance of their economic system of favor is a pair of frayed-edge denim tunics impressed by Janis Joplin—one blue, one pink—which Marques swears they got here up with seasons again: “It’s barely dangerously quick! We like that the sleeve is barely belled, and it’s the identical size because the skirt.” However who even realized that they’ve even been making that nice piece, which self-evidently will be utilized as a costume or a high, or whatever-we-want? Within the flurry to supply ‘statements’ and novelties that pressurizes all designers, such issues so typically dip out of sight. What’s seen and what’s unseen in trend is the query these designers are tackling head on.